Haruru Falls and Waitangi

This morning I went for a wander around Russell.The town with its laid back ambiance, lovely old houses and superb water views is a delight to visit. I took the time to drop into  the local museum and was richly rewarded with an eclectic display of Maori artifacts and primitive weapons as well as a wonderfull one third size replica of Captain Cook's barque,   "Endeavour", which sailed into the Bay of Islands in 1769. In the afternoon our group went to Haruru Falls some three kilometers inland from Paihai. This town is famous historically not only as Aotearoa's first river port but also as an aramoana or sea road for the more isolated Maori tribes. Adjacent to the town is the Haruru Falls, a breathtaking sight with a deluge of water cascading down in a rare and spectacular horseshoe fashion. Haruru translates as "Big Noise" and Maori legend talks of a tamiwha or water monster lurking in the lagoon below. From the Falls we took the five kilometer hiking track directly to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds for our Maori Cultural Performance and hangi experience. It was a fairly sheltered forest walk alongside the translucent green Waitangi river, where we saw shags nesting and feeding their young as well as other water birds such as heron and kingfishers. Leaving the riverside we walked along a boardwalk over mature mangroves. Mangrove trees have a unique ability to thrive in salt water.When we arrived at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, a verdant vast expanse of headland overlooking the ocean, we all felt a feeling of great tranquility. In the grounds we came across a massive Waka Taua or war canoe. This Waka is 35 meters long, needs 80 paddlers for propulsion and has been clocked at 27 knots.We continued on to the Meeting House or Te Whare Runanga, an impressive carved structure representing the major Maori tribes and built in 1940 to celebrate the centenary of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. We were greeted at the entrance by a group of Maoris in traditional dress with a fierce rendition of a war haka, and when we indicated we had come in peace, they invited us in and the cultural experience began with traditional Maori songs and dances  and ended with a ferocious display of weapons formally used in tribal warfare. It was magical entertainment and one left with a greater understanding and appreciation of Maori culture. We finished our evening with a hangi of roast chicken, lamb or pork. Another most enjoyable day in Aotearoa.